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Article
Publication date: 5 November 2019

Yosuke Horiba, Ayumu Tokutake and S. Inui

Mobility is one of the important elements in clothing design. The purpose of this paper is to examine the predictability of clothing mobility via musculoskeletal simulation.

Abstract

Purpose

Mobility is one of the important elements in clothing design. The purpose of this paper is to examine the predictability of clothing mobility via musculoskeletal simulation.

Design/methodology/approach

In order to carry out the musculoskeletal simulation considering the influence of clothing, simulation of the dressed state was attempted. This paper simulated the dressed state and measured the motion-related deformation of the clothing to estimate the force applied to the human body based on the material property of the clothing samples. The dressed state was simulated using an external force in the musculoskeletal model.

Findings

When the elbow flexion torque with an elbow supporter was calculated using the above-mentioned method of musculoskeletal simulation, it was confirmed that the lower the stretchability of the sample, the higher the elbow flexion torque. In addition, the sensory evaluation performed under the same condition as that in the simulation showed that the lower the joint torque during the motion, the higher the subjective mobility, and that the higher the joint torque, the lower the subjective mobility. Thus, it is suggested that musculoskeletal simulation of the dressed state can predict the clothing mobility.

Research limitations/implications

However, the method proposed in this paper requires the measurement of the deformation of the clothing to estimate the force applied to the human body. Thus, it is difficult to apply this in the measurement of general clothing that allows enough space between it and the human body, requiring further improvement of the dressed state simulation method.

Originality/value

Because it is difficult to estimate the force applied by the clothing to the human body, only a few studies have performed analysis on the effect of clothing by using musculoskeletal simulation. Conversely, although the force applied by the clothing to the human body needs to be estimated in advance by the measurement of the deformation, the utility of the simulation in clothing design seems to be high because the simulation can estimate clothing mobility and the effects of clothing on muscle activity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2020

Shigeru Inui, Yuko Mesuda and Yosuke Horiba

The final goal of this study is to virtualize draping. Draping which is one of the methods to design paper patterns for clothing requires much labor and time. The sub-goal of this…

Abstract

Purpose

The final goal of this study is to virtualize draping. Draping which is one of the methods to design paper patterns for clothing requires much labor and time. The sub-goal of this study is to construct a system in which the fundamental functions of draping are equipped.

Design/methodology/approach

The system is realized in the virtual world by integrating the virtualized elements of real draping. The cloth is modeled by mechanical formulation, and the shape is determined by numerical calculation. The hand is geometrically modeled, and the captured motions of the hand and fingers are applied to the model. The model dress form is made from the data by measurement. The system in which darts can be made in the virtual space is constructed by integrating the models.

Findings

It is confirmed that the cloth model in the virtual world can be manipulated by the motions of the fingers in the real world. And it is suggested that it is possible to design practical paper patterns for clothing by adding functions to the system.

Originality/value

We are aiming at the system to design paper patterns by the movements of the fingers. With this system, it is expected that the efficiency in designing paper patterns is much improved, and it becomes possible to design clothing that fits individuals efficiently.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2015

Yuko Mesuda, Shigeru Inui and Yosuke Horiba

Draping is one method used in clothing design. It is important to virtualize draping in real time, and virtual cloth handling is a key technology for this purpose. A mouse is…

Abstract

Purpose

Draping is one method used in clothing design. It is important to virtualize draping in real time, and virtual cloth handling is a key technology for this purpose. A mouse is often used for real-time cloth handling in many studies. However, gesture manipulation is more realistic than movements using the mouse. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate virtual cloth manipulation using hand gestures in the real world.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the authors demonstrate three types of manipulation: moving, cutting, and attaching. The user’s hand coordinates are obtained with a Kinect, and the cloth model is manipulated by them. The cloth model is moved based on the position of the hand coordinates. The cloth model is cut along a cut line calculated from the hand coordinates. In attaching the cloth model, it is mapped to a dummy model and then part of the cloth model is fixed and another part is released.

Findings

This method can move the cloth model according to the motion of the hands. The authors have succeeded in cutting the cloth model based on the hand trajectory. The cloth model can be attached to the dummy model and its form is changed along the dummy model shape.

Originality/value

Cloth handling in many studies is based on indirect manipulation using a mouse. In this study, the cloth model is manipulated according to hand motion in the real world in real time.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 February 2012

Shigeru Inui, Tatsuro Yamada, Yosuke Horiba and Minoru Hashimoto

In the trend from mass production to mass customization, more flexible production systems are required. In the clothing field, many studies about automatization of sewing…

1190

Abstract

Purpose

In the trend from mass production to mass customization, more flexible production systems are required. In the clothing field, many studies about automatization of sewing processes have been done into producing small amounts of various kinds of products. The purpose of this paper is to propose a versatile guiding mechanism of a cloth for an automatic sewing system.

Design/methodology/approach

Real sewing processes were referenced for the mechanism, and curved stitch is formed holding a point on a cloth. This mechanism consists of a solenoid for holding a cloth and a roller to prevent deformation of the cloth. When a cloth is sewn with the mechanism, the trajectory of the stitch is unstable because of anisotropy of a cloth. A precise trajectory was obtained by adding a device to control the pressure of the roller for holding a cloth and keeping a tension properly applied to a cloth.

Findings

It was found out that shearing property is the most related to the stability of sewing trajectory. If the tension for guidance applied to a cloth is constant, deformation of the cloth was observed and it was the cause of unstableness of sewing trajectory. By controlling the tension for guidance applied to a cloth properly according to the direction of the cloth, precise sewing trajectory was obtained.

Originality/value

There have been some studies in which sewing conditions were dynamically controlled according to the mechanical properties of a cloth. To these studies, here it was proposed that sewing conditions were kept constant by controlling the guidance of a cloth according to its mechanical properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 June 2019

Naohito Jimba, Tomoharu Ishikawa, Yoshiko Yanagida, Hiroshi Mori, Kazuya Sasaki and Miyoshi Ayama

The purpose of this paper is to find the optimal rotary motion conditions to create drapes in fabric to visually convey tactile “softness/hardness” and identify key physical…

137

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to find the optimal rotary motion conditions to create drapes in fabric to visually convey tactile “softness/hardness” and identify key physical factors in visual evaluations of fabric “softness/hardness” via videos of fabric draping.

Design/methodology/approach

Subjects evaluated visually and by touch, the “softness/hardness” of fabrics draped over a cylinder. In the visual evaluation experiment, subjects were presented with 16 videos of the movement of fabric drapes when the cylinder was rotated (four rotation speeds and four angular acceleration rates) and they evaluated the “softness/hardness” of each fabric visually. By examining the “softness/hardness” ratings in the two experiments, the optimal rotary motion condition that conveyed fabric “softness/hardness” was identified. Changes in the shape of fabric drape when moving under optimal rotary motion conditions were analyzed to determine key physical factors that affected visual evaluations of fabric “softness/hardness.”

Findings

Optimal rotary motion conditions (rotation speed and angular acceleration rate) that expressed each fabric’s “softness/hardness” appropriately were identified. Additionally, the magnitude of change in the angle of fabric drape when rotating under optimal rotary motion conditions was the key factor used in visual evaluation of each fabric’s “softness/hardness.”

Originality/value

The conditions needed to produce visual images that convey fabric “softness/hardness” only through visual information (i.e. without touching the fabric) were identified, based on the fabric’s bending rigidity. The magnitude of change in the angle of fabric drape enabled accurate visual judgments of fabric “softness/hardness.”

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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